
Mr Yous, the tuk tuk driver, collected me at eight and we agreed a price for the day. I would pay him 10 dollars, and in return he would drive me around the city known as Phnom Phen. Our first stop was breakfast at his brother’s restaurant where we ate boiled eggs with rice, and drank coffee and mango juice. The early morning smog of the city was emerging while the people prepared for their days.
His brother’s daughter, a twelve year old called Chankrisna, was watching a TV show, it looked like a comedy, and she was eating sticky rice. She was dressed in a spotless white shirt and pleated blue skirt and I could see she wanted to join me. I smiled at her and made a patting motion near the red plastic seat just next to me, and she came over.
“Hello my name is Chankrisna. I am 12 years old. I am from the Kingdom of Cambodia. Chankrisna means a sweet smelling tree” she recited and I told her that her English was very good. She put her hand over her mouth and started laughing.
“Where do you visit today?” she asked me, looking at my guide book on the table between us. I said to her “I want to visit a temple, the river, the killing fields and perhaps the market” and she nodded in agreement, but she seemed still to be more interested in her TV show, or perhaps the adverts which were showing toy dolls. Her father came out of the kitchen and said something to her in Khmer, so she skipped out front to hop onto her motorbike and she drove off to school. I noticed Mr Yous had finished his breakfast, so I clambered less elegantly into our tuk tuk and we headed off in the exact opposite direction to Chankrisna.
Tuk tuk drivers are the contemporary dancers of south east Asia. They weave in and out of traffic like gentle anarchists of the road, and they have sublime balance. Mr Yous started telling me about his tuk tuk “it’s a Honda Dream with a 125 engine” he said and I smiled and I nodded. He continued “it was 800 dollars so my brother gave me half of the money and together we drive the tourists around” and again I nodded and I smiled. I told him that I thought it must be very hard to drive in the traffic and the heat, but to this he made no reply. And when I said I thought he was an excellent driver, he smiled at me in the rear view mirror and for some reason I felt embarrassed.
We stopped at a Temple for a blessing. There were two women sitting under an enormous Buddha statue dressed in saffron, but with very little else around them. I sat down next to the women and they started chanting and they gave me two sticks of incense to hold. They tied two pieces of wool around my wrist, which were symbols of the blessings, and these red and yellow bands would protect me while I was travelling. One woman encouraged me to stand up and bow in front of the statue, to present him with the incense I had been given, and so I did. I bowed once, twice, three times before setting the incense into the bowls beneath him and I silently said thank you. I put on my shoes and went to find Mr Yous.
We left the temple behind us and headed towards the Killing Fields. A tourist attraction of a grisly nature, yet one I had to visit as I’d promised my new Cambodian friends up north that I would before leaving. But as we approached the gate I started to change my mind. I didn’t want to go in; it was dentist fear, exam day fear, first day in a new town fear. I didn’t want to go in. But in I walked and bought my ticket and a headphone kit with all the guided information in English a woman could ever want.
And so the voice on the headphones began…
“Welcome to Cheung Ek or The Killing Fields of Cambodia. Perhaps it should be called “one” of the Killing Fields as there are still so many others lost in jungle, under leaves and beneath memories. But Cheung Ek is the most visited and notorious because maybe it was the best one. Sometimes the Khmer Rouge killed 300 people a day here”.
For the next two hours I walked around a piece of ground which marks the brutal site where thousands of Cambodians were killed by the Khmer Rouge in the early 1970s. Where no one knows the exact number of deaths, because every year and after the rains, more fragments of bone and cloth are uncovered. A place where, because the bullets were so expensive, the killers had to be resourceful and so they used bamboo sticks, the bark of trees and hoes to silence the enemies of the revolution.
Perhaps you stop counting deaths after a while.
The voice on my headset hadn’t finished telling me details, but I had to leave that place. So I went outside to find Mr Yous and his tuk tuk. He was there, talking to other drivers and eating some Durian.
“Are you ok, did something happen?” He asked me.
“No I’m fine, can we go please?”
“Of course. Would you like some fruit or coffee? Perhaps some water?” But I said no and got into the tuk tuk and I didn’t look behind me.
I was still catching my breath when I realised that Mr Yous was driving me directly from the Killing Fields to Tuol Sleng on street 113. He pulled up outside and smiled like a Prince and said
“Please observe my country a little more and then we will go to the market”.
So dutifully I did. Tuol Sleng was a plain old secondary school in the early 70s before the Khmer Rouge realised that it would make an efficient torture camp. Instead of chalk boards, paintings and timetables of school activities, the walls of this old institution are packed with photographs of every man, woman and child who spent time there. And who then died there. I started to think about the photographers of the regime who had to prepare film, buy chemicals for developing the portraits and write up the biographies to go with the shots. They must have made choices only fit for the nightmares of the insane.
I sat on a bench under a tree and looked at the school from the outside. It really did look just like any other school in the city, and I couldn’t process the information that I had been given. So I stood up and left the place and found Mr Yous, waiting for me one more time.
He looked concerned for me and asked me if I was feeling well. He told me that sometimes the foreigners felt sick from the sun or the food or the water, but I assured him that wasn’t the case.
Actually, as it was near enough to cocktail hour I asked him to take me to a bar. Any bar. Anywhere in the city. But preferably somewhere far away from torture, genocide and death. So he smiled and drove me straight to the Foreign Correspondents Club near the Mekong River and I headed straight for the balcony on the very first floor. I invited him in to join me for a beer, but when he shook his head and said “no thank you” I felt embarrassed for the second time that day.
I asked the tiny waitress for a glass of white wine and she said “for you today, happy hour” so I relaxed and made myself quite comfortable. I sat at the bar, watched her serve foreigners, laugh with her colleagues, and occasionally hit her arm or leg to keep mosquitoes away. I smoked cigarettes and wrote three postcards home, ordered more wine and talked to a geologist from Minnesota about the dangers of ice-fishing. I stared out at the Mekong River and watched the boats sailing and I watched the sun go down.
When I finally left the bar Mr Yous was in his tuk tuk, waiting to drive me home. But when we arrived at street 322 I could only find a 20 dollar note instead of the 10 dollars we had agreed earlier that day, so I told him to keep the change. Now it was his time to look embarrassed and while he tried to give me change, I refused it, and I headed inside to my air conditioned room with the clean sheets and soft pillows and I fell asleep immediately. I had expected to dream of the people from the black and white photographs, but instead I dreamt of Chankrisna. She was swimming in the Gulf of Thailand together with turtles, bannerfish, seahorses and dolphins. And she looked as happy as children swimming often do.
The next morning, I went downstairs to the reception and there on the counter was a small envelope with my name on it. There was a crisp 10 dollar bill inside with a few neatly written words in English on the inside of the envelope.
The words simply said “Thank you. From Mr Yous, the tuk tuk driver”.